Special Effects!

In the incredible world of professional makeup artistry there is an abbreviation for those who create special effects; SFX. The geniuses that make up the SFX teams on major blockbuster motion pictures are extremely gifted individuals who love to transform others into monsters, wizards, vampires or victims of brutal force!

They study, perfect their artistry and capture our attention by creating creatures we either totally hate or can’t help but fall in love with! The magic created by SFX teams is meant to transport a viewer into another world (Harry Potter, Lord of the Rings, Star Trek), bring fantasy to reality (Twilight, Pirates of the Caribbean, Terminator) or entice our worst fears (Saw, The Exorcist, Friday the 13^th).

This Pro had the pleasure of apprenticing for the first 3 years of my makeup career for one of the greatest special effects artists of our time; Mr. Stan Winston, who left us too early last summer. He was a gentleman, a lover of the bizarre and his talent was masterful.

Today, there are many SFX artists that rule the galaxy and if you were at the recent IMATS Convention put on by Makeup Artist Magazine, you may have had the pleasure of meeting a few of them, such as; Dick Smith, Ve Neill or Barney Burman. Other legends include; Rick Baker and Tom Savini. These experts are people I admire and wait with baited breath for their next movies to be released!

But did you know that there are products available to the consumer that can transform average makeup into magical potions, concoctions that create illusions and elixirs, which you can apply daily, that will take your gorgeous face and body to the next level?

This Pro is not referring to blood, injuries or fake body parts that you would rock during Halloween, I am referencing products that can turn powder shadow into waterproof eye liner, tattoo ink that can last for a week or highlighters that can cover massive rosacea and other skin imperfections!

I am talking about lip gloss that can change the color of lipstick or change the average lipstick into a long-wearing color requiring little touch up! Serum that can enhance your breast size (um, can I get that in a gallon size tub please?)! Eye drops that make the whites of your eyes so pure, oil that makes your hair shine for days and treatments that can help your nails grow quickly!

These mystical gifts are “special” and if you need to know what ingredients are used in each of them, then please feel free to do the research. This Pro doesn’t really care too much (unless my client is allergic) about what is on the “inside!” I care more about what happens on the “outside” and I know first hand that these specialty products add some fun and creativity into the mundane!

So, are you ready? Then fasten your seatbelts – here is a list of products that this Pros use to create some amazing special effects…

M.A.C.:

Chromacake – a solid water-color pigment activated with water. This product is highly pigmented and it dries to a matte finish making it excellent for body makeup, tattoo color filler or fantasy makeup on eyes, cheeks and lips!

Mixing Mediums – gel, lash and eye liner – mixing mediums allow you to create your own personalized colors of mascara, eye liner or custom body pigments when mixed with glitters or powder shadows and blush colors. You should not use the gel medium around the eye – lash and eye liner mediums are formulated specifically for that area.

Brow Gel & Finisher – Adds shine, style and grooming to brows. Available in several shades or clear. Can be used on lashes, sideburns, beards or to fill in thinning hair areas. Also, Brow Finisher is a wax-style product used for shaping and holding the brows in place. Create a very polished and slick brow look.

OBESSIVE COMPULSIVE COSMETICS:

Lip Tar – this incredible innovation in lip color combines the longevity of a lipstick with the ease of application of a gloss. Goes on slick and dries to a satin finish. Very highly pigmented so a little goes a very long way. Use colors like white and black to mix with traditional lipstick and create your own customized lip color. Clear Lip Tar can by used with loose color or pigment. 100% vegan and cruelty-free. This products acts as a stain for long lasting wear.

MAKE UP FOR EVER:

Glitters – professional makeup artist use this product during fashion shows to add a touch of glamour! This glitter is very finely milled and creates a sparkling veil over the face, body and hair. It's like fairy dust in a jar!

Body Tan – is a non-greasy colored gel that gives the illusion of tanned skin with a radiant bronzed look. Can be used alone or under makeup. Very soft, dries quickly and is water-resistant for long-lasting hold. Make sure gel is completely dry before putting on clothes. Not a self-tanner.

Metal Powder – loose powder in a gold-bronze or silver shade that will give the skin a metallic sheen. Can create a “statue” effect and they are ideal for covering large areas of the skin. Can be applied with a brush or sponge. Use a setting spray to hold.

Nude False Lashes – in a variety of styles, sizes and lengths, these false lashes intensify your eyes and add depth. Pale or light brown in shade, use these lashes for daily wear or to naturally add drama to the eye day or night.

URBAN DECAY:

Midnight Cowboy – shimmer body lotion is a veil of gold dust that will leave your skin looking hydrated and radiant. Contains a natural blend of Aloe, Chamomile, Avocado and Jojoba Oils with Vitamin E and Green Tea Extract. Light scent won’t clash with fragrances.

TEMPTU:

Tattoo Transfers - best known in the industry as the secret for realistic temporary tattoos. Printed with high quality black cosmetic ink, they are designed to last any where from 2 to 5 days. These tattoos easily transfer to skin using 70% isopropyl alcohol and can be removed with alcohol or baby oil. Made to be durable and smudgeproof, you can fill them in with color using Temptu Dura Ink or airbrush color.

Dura Ink - these inks are formulated to be used with an airbrush, paintbrush or sponge. Extremely pigmented and very long-lasting. Covers evenly and comes in a wide variety of colors, shimmers and blacklight colors. This product was used to create the character of Mystique in the X-Men films.

Pro Touchup Paint – this product is the perfect color match to fill in, thicken up or accent a Temptu Tattoo Transfer. If you want the look of authenticity, but are afraid of getting a permanent tattoo, this product is a realistic alternative when used in conjunction with tattoo transfers. Will dry lighter or darker depending on deepness of skintone.

Dura Pro Palette – choose Skinlight or Skindark and use to cover tattoos or unwanted discolorations like rosacea quickly and easily. Activated by using 99% isopropyl alcohol this product was made to withstand the most extreme conditions (even a Bridezilla insisting that you cover your sleeved arm before the wedding)!

EVE PEARL:

Anti-Shine – got oil? This product used sparingly with fingers or sponge will mattify the skin and is a quick drying, tinted gel formula. Controls oil and shine all day and regulates oil production. Ideal for face, scalps and bald heads. Recommended for use alone or under makeup.

SKINDINAVIA:

Makeup Finishing Spray – it is impossible for this Pro to shoot a movie or television project without this product. Apply over makeup for flawless set, hold and blending. Extends the wear of makeup for hours and prevents the need for multiple touchups. Resists heat and humidity. Great for use in summer or everyday to control makeup from fading.

LEONOR GREYL:

Huile de palme – used for detangling, softening and to protect hair from the sun, seawater and chlorinated pool water. Should be used prior to shampoo. This formula uses botanical oils that nourish the hair. Used at night or should be left on for 10 minutes then shampooed out. Perfect solution for damaged hair.

TALIKA:

Nail Regenerator Serum – if you wear acrylic nails, nail polish or use cleaning products without protecting your hands then you must purchase this product! This serum nourishes, hydrates and restructures fragile and lifeless nails and stimulates growth. Softens cuticles and heals damaged matrices. Made from 100% natural plant oils this is a natural 28-day treatment.

Bust Serum – this product will give your breasts volume, lift and firmness in as little as 6 weeks. Made of mukul bark extract, this bust serum targets stored triglycerides, thereby increasing volume. This Pro has just started to use this product (3 days) and is hoping to see improvement in firmness!

THE MODEL BROW BY ELKE VON FREUDENBERG:

Brow Ware – this product provides hold to thinner eyebrows without the crunchy, flaking off residue. Use after eye brow grooming and filling in with brow pencil or shadow. Great for both women and men! Good bang for your buck!

Hi-Light Shadow – Hi-Lites make your eyebrows look sharper, more defined and brings attention to your eyebrows. Plus, these Hi-Lites work

great to mask growing in brows (or stragglers) until that next grooming appointment and can bring an instant lift effect to the eye area!

Big Time Nite Brow Shadow – I like the way Elke thinks! She says, “who says eyebrows can’t look amazing at night?” And she is a smart cookie for inventing gorgeous shadows that play up your brows and add just the right amout of shimmer/sparkle without being over the top. Can be used wet for a very dramatic look!

PURELY COSMETICS:

Diamond Perfect Finish – this is my secret weapon! Made with real diamonds, this product will give your skin an airbrushed appearance. This powder is finely milled and is made to settle into the fine lines and pores translucently in order to decrease the appearance of wrinkles by bouncing the light off your skin! Now, don’t get me wrong…you won’t shine like Lucy in the Sky with streams of light pouring out of your face! It is a subtle refraction of light! Each full-sized product contains nearly a full carat of diamond – the ultimate luxury for your skin!

COLLYRE BLUE:

Eye Drops – created to remove the yellow in the whites of the eye, this product is tinted blue which makes the eyes appear cleaner, clearer and more youthful. Put a drop in each eye and wait 15 minutes. Avoid using these drops when wearing a soft contact lense as the blue will tint the lens.

ILLAMASQUA:

Illuminator - want to create a porcelain doll, noir or fantasy look? Then embrace your inner dark side with this intense color that highlights and enhances any area you apply it! Goes on wet, but dries quickly leaving a high-shine, reflective finish that will last all night! Can be used on cheeks, brows or other parts of the body. Comes in a variety of shades.

You don’t have to be a major special effects artist to be influenced by the products listed above. Embrace your creative side and get inspired to try these alternative products and add some pizzazz to your everyday routine!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Use a neutral eye pencil like Julie Hewett’s Omit or Paula Dorf’s Baby Eyes to line the lower water line instead of using a traditional white pencil. You can also try Origins’ Eye Brightening Color Stick in IceBlue. This technique is used by professional makeup artists to create the illusion of brighter eyes and can be used in place of eye drops.

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO – makeup bags, palettes and train cases oh my!!! Ever wonder what professional makeup artists use to haul around loads of beauty products from shoot to shoot? IMPO will review some of the very best storage solutions and containers for your cosmetics!

*above photos courtesy: Make Up For Ever, Ve Neill, Stan Winston, America's Next Top Model, Illamasqua

Smoke Signals!

Smoldering, sexy, alluring, sophisticated, classic, that is this Pro's definition of a Smoky Eye! In the world of professional makeup artistry, the request for a smoky eye is made daily by my clients no matter if it is day or night. Probably the most popular eye makeup look of all time both on the runway and in real life, the smoky eye has past the “trend” label and become a “staple” look for most women.

You don’t need to attend a red carpet event or concert to rock this look, but what you will need is a little…attitude, which seems to come naturally when you wear a smoky eye. Your demeanor will change and don’t be surprised if you turn heads more than usual! Whether you are in the boardroom or ballroom, this look commands attention and will get you noticed (in a good way if you follow instructions).



There is a “standard” smoky eye look and there are “unconventional” smoky eye looks and this Pro is a lover of them all. Society tends to think that you have to be a rock star, actress or diva to wear this look and that the everyday women could not or should not try to pull it off! This Pro says, step outside of your comfort zone and give “them” something to talk about!

Done right, this look will make your eyes “pop” and speak to the world louder than your words ever could! The smoky eye is like the “bad boy” for women and I often wonder who created this movement. Maybe it all started with “ladies of the night” or witches or vampires. No matter, whoever created it should win an Oscar for their achievement in makeup artistry!



This look can be tricky, messy, frustrating and can make you appear older if you don’t follow the “rules!” Traditionally, the look is created using heavy black, charcoal, silver and purple colors, but cosmetic lines have branched out creating deep tones of blues, browns and greens to bring the consumer a variety and help to make this look acceptable for daytime wear.

This post is going to take you through the steps to create a smoky eye for both day and night, but first you need to gather your tools:

* Eye Shadow Primer
* Tweezers
* Eye Shadow
(4 colors) light, medium, dark and a base color (neutral vanilla shade).
* Eye Liner
(cream, gel, pencil – your choice – in black or coordinating color)
* Brushes
(2 flat eye shadow brushes & 1 each of a fluffy blender, sponged smudger, stiff crease, large powder brush)
* Translucent Powder
* Cosmetic Wipes
* Black Mascara



Here is the how-to for day:

1. Begin with the skin prep (moisturizer, primer, eye cream). Now, apply your eye shadow primer and blend. Give the skin 10 minutes to absorb product and “blot” with Kleenex to remove excess. Analyze your eyebrows and use tweezers to clean up issues. A polished eyebrow is essential for this look!

2. Do not apply foundation or concealer yet – we are doing the eyes first. Take translucent powder and heavily dust the under eye area with product – you want to see the powder under the eye – do not blend in. This technique will “capture” any fall out eye shadow and you will be able to whisk it away after application is complete.

3. You can either apply the liner (of your choice) now to top lashes only and use smudger brush or wait to apply after eye shadow. Remember, you are wearing this look during the day so your color choices should be in the brown or earth tone hues. Save the black, blue, green or purple for nighttime! Another option is tight lining the eye.

4. Using one of the flat eye shadow brushes, apply eye shadow base color all over lid to brow bone (this is the neutral vanilla color and it acts as a base which gives the shadow good “grab” and color intensity). Take a clean flat eye shadow brush and apply the medium tone shadow from lash line blending upward into the crease (depositing most of the color on lid and lash line) – do not take this into a cat eye effect.

5. Using crease brush load deep color and apply to outer corner of eye creating a “V” shape and blend. Take clean blender brush and blend, blend, blend all color together minimizing hard demarcation edges. Return to the flat eye shadow brush used to apply base color and load lightest eye shadow color applying to brow bone and blend again!

6. Taking medium and dark eye shadow hues move to lower lash line, dip crease brush into both shades and apply. Line the eye from outer to inner corner and smudge. Contrary to popular belief, it is okay to line the inside lower water line for a day look with coordinating eyeliner color – I give you permission, but it will be more dramatic!

7. Analyze eye application and add color if necessary. Fill in brows if needed and apply two coats of black mascara to your upper lashes and one coat to your bottom lashes for definition.

8. Use powder brush to gently whisk away translucent powder, take cosmetic wipes and clean up the under eye area. Now is the time to apply foundation, concealer and complete your look. Be careful not to remove liner or shadow when using wipes, eye cream or other cosmetics.



Pro Tip: It doesn’t matter if you are wearing the smoky eye look for day or night the same rule applies with blush and lipstick/gloss. Use a light dusting of bronzer and highlighter for cheeks and a nude or natural tone lipstick/gloss. Do not apply heavy or very pigmented blush and lip colors because that will “age” and “date” this look and take you immediately back to the future ala Joan Collins on the set of Dynasty and you will arrive there via Marty McFly’s DeLorean time machine! Get it? Good!



Here is the how-to for night:

Follow steps 1 and 2

3. Decide if you are creating a “traditional” smoky look using black, charcoals, etc., or a “colored” smoky eye using purples, greens, blues or metallics. Grab 3 shades (light, medium, dark) and the neutral base color. Apply in same manner as directed above, but you can be slightly more heavy handed and create that cat-eye effect if you wish. Build on the color and play with the look. The messy, slept-in smoky eye is hot right now!

4. Use coordinating liner in a deep hue or black and smudge into upper and lower lash line and in the bottom water line.

5. Analyze look and add color if necessary.

6. Apply three coats of black mascara on top lashes and 1 coat on bottom lashes for definition. This is also the time to use a false lash if you choose.

7. Whisk away translucent powder and clean up eye area same as above.

8. Apply the rest of your makeup and follow Pro tip rule pertaining to cheeks and lips.



Here is a list of this Pro’s must have smoky eye products that are rich in pigment with exceptional blendability:

Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow



Tricia Sawyer Beauty Smoke and Mirrors



Make Up For Ever



Nars



Urban Decay



All product listed above can be purchased at your local Department Store or Sephora.

PRO TIPS & TRICKS:
This Pro just read a very valuable tip from InStyle Magazine and Pro Makeup Artist, Linda Cantello. She says, “the biggest mistake people make with a smoky eye is using a lighter shade of shadow to blend in the darker color – it takes away from the richness of the look!” So basically that means, if you feel that you applied too much color, clean off your blender brush and blend the color in more. That way, your pigmentation will stay true and not change because you added your lighter color on top of or over your darker color.



So ladies, if you think you are too old to smoke out those peepers here is a shot of what 42 years old looks like with a smoky eye!! Grab yourself a "venti" sized helping of self esteem and rock this look like I do and because this Pro is all about changing the conventional image, I will even go one step further and show you how incredible this look can be on a much older woman! Take a gander at the gorgeous Carmen Dell'Orefice, she is working that smoky eye at almost 78 years old!!






STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO: Tween to Teen - this Pro has been blessed with two amazing daughters and you can imagine how much they love makeup because of my chosen profession. IMPO's next post will focus on everything you need to know about skin care and makeup for the younger generation!




*face chart courtesy - Wendy Whitelaw, Pro Makeup Artist and some photos courtsey of Haper's Bazaar